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Everybody will agree that a 4h walk is a small price to pay in order to watch the sunset on top of a mountain while enjoying a tea from a comfortable hut…
This is what you’ll get if you decide to spend a night in Mueller hut. “Wait a minute Nico!” I hear you say… is there a catch?
Well… yes there is one… but we’ll talk about it later. First, I will tell you everything you need to know if you want to plan an overnight trip to Mueller hut. How to access it, what to take with you, what weather to expect, how to plan your trip and, if you are into photography, what the nice spots are to take pictures on your way.
While writing this article, I went through my trip logs and realised that I have been there 5 times over the last 7 years… I knew I had been there a few times but didn’t know I had been so obsessed with that hut. I decided to put all my knowledge in this one article so that you don’t have to go anywhere else to dig for some info. So take a comfortable sit and enjoy the read.
How to get there
The track going to Mueller hut leaves from White Horse Hill car park located in Mt Cook village. This village is only accessible via one road and once you get to the village, it is literally the end of the road. There is no going further!
If you are arriving from Christchurch, it will take you approximately 4h to get to the Aoraki / Mount Cook. I say “approximately” because if you are making the drive from Christchurch, you’ll probably want to stop on the way at lake Tekapo and Pukaki. Two lakes that provide amazing views on the Southern Alps. The Mackenzie region is a very underrated region and worth spending some time enjoying it.
Coming from Queenstown or Wanaka is a bit quicker and the road going through Central Otago is very scenic. You’ll probably also want to stop in Lindis pPss on your way. It will take you somewhere around 3h30 from Queenstown and 2h30 from Wanaka. Once again, bear in mind that you will most definitely stop on your way so your travel times might be longer!
The fact that there is only one road going to Mt Cook village makes your options pretty limited if you don’t have a car. While there are airports, those are only limited to scenic flights so you will not be able to fly there.
It is possible to take a bus and Intercity is a really good option if you want to do that. Buses operate once a day to and from the village
The track up to Mueller hut
Aoraki / Mount Cook village to Sealy tarns – 2-3h +500m
Remember when you were asking if there was a catch and I avoided the question? Well here is tha catch: the walk takes 4h hours… but most of those 4 hours are spent going up. And when I say up, I really mean up.
After a short flat section following the Kea Point track, you quickly take the track to Sealy tarns (left at the fork) and once you are in the bush, you will hit the first steps. This is where the fun begin. Those steps will be with you until Sealy tarns.
The steps used to be made of old wooden rails falling apart but the track has been entirely rebuilt a few years ago. This makes it more enjoyable (that is if you enjoy steps of course!) but also safer.
After 2-3h and a 500m climb, you will arrive to Sealy tarns. This is a perfect spot for a break (if you haven’t taken one yet, I will not shame you if you have, don’t worry!). This is also a great spot for photography as the view on Aoraki / Mt Cook, the Hooker lake and Tasman valley is breathtaking (we’ll pretend it is the view and not those steps that makes you out of breath…).
Sealy tarns to Sealy ridge – 1-2h – +400m
Once you feel like tackling the next part of the track, head south (Mt Cook in your back) and you will quickly find some orange markers that will lead the way to the ridge. That section is a bit more technical than the first one. Having said that, the track is clearly marked and easy to follow.
It will take you about 1-2h to get to the ridge. It is around 400m and the hundred meters are in a fact a scree which might make you miss those steps of the first section!
If you make the walk in late winter, early spring, that scree in often covered in snow which makes the climb nicer (if the snow is not too soft).
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Carpark
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Sealy tarns
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Sealy ridge
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Mueller hut
I’ll be honest, that climb is a slug. Specially if you decide to bring “extra” gear!
But it’s totally worth it.
Sealy ridge to Mueller hut – 30mn – +100m
Once you are at the ridge, you can stop as, once again, the views on Mt Cook are quite impressive.
The last section is easy and quite flat compared to what you already climbed. The track is once again well marked with some orange poles showing you the way. The hut is reached in 30mn but I strongly recommend you don’t stop your efforts there.
Mueller Hut to Mt Ollivier – 30mn – +100m
Once you are at the hut, drop your bag, take some water and warn clothes, then go to Mt Ollivier which is just behind the hut. It is only a 100m climb and making it to the summit after a long day walking makes it so much more rewarding.
The way back to the car park is via the same track and I can already tell you that it is a leg breaker, even for the fittest!
A quick history of Mueller hut
Mueller Hut happens to have a rich and quite tumultuous history! The actual hut is in fact the 5th one to be built next to the Mueller glacier!
The first hut was built in 1914 but had to be rebuilt in another place in 1947 as it was getting too dangerous to access.
That second hut did not last long. To be precise, it lasted only 4 months before being swept by an avalanche.
The third hut was built on the same location with the debris from the former hut and was used as a temporary hut while building the forth hut.
This forth Mueller Hut was built not far below the present site in 1953 and lasted until it was pulled down in 2003.
The fifth hut, the one we can visit today was opened in 2003 by Sir Edmund Hillary. It is located just below Mt Ollivier which happenz to be the first mountain Sir Ed ever climbed.
What to expect in the Hut?
Sleeping:
The hut has 28 bunk beds with mattresses. There are blankets available but they will not keep you warm at night so I strongly recommend you take a warm sleeping bag.
If you are a light sleeper, I also recommend you to take a ear plugs as it is not uncommon to share the room with a few snorers (those long hours climbing up combined with a few glasses of wine at night don’t help!).
Pro tip: keep your spare clothes in a plastic bag during the day. This will keep them dry in case of rain and you will be able to stuff your bag to make a nice pillow at night!
Cooking:
Mueller Hut is a serviced hut which means that you will find gas in the hut for cooking. You should always have a spare cooker when you are doing this kind of trip in mountain terrain, but if there was one hike I would say it is not a big deal if you forget your cooking gear, that would be this one. It is quite likely that you will always have gas at the hut and if there is not, there is always people in this hut so that minimises the risks of eating your noodles dry.
There are also a lot of spare pots in the hut so if you are not toooo picky with hygiene, then you can save some weight with only carrying your cutlery.
I personally always have a pot and cooker with me but if you are concerned with weight, that’s where you can save some on that hike.
Water:
There is rain water collected in the hut which means you will most likely find water when you arrive on the top. One thing the keep in mind if you go there in winter: the pipe can sometimes freeze overnight which means you should keep some water inside.
Toilets:
They are located outside the hut and can be hard to access in winter when there is bad weather and snow but most of the time you will be fine (don’t forget to take your toilet paper though).
Other info:
You will get weather reports in the hut via the mountain radio every day at 5pm. The DOC will provide short and long term forecast via the mountain radio located in the main leaving are of the hut. This can be useful to confirm that there is no last minute change in the weather (not unlikely to happen!)
If you hear a loud rumble from the hut, this is probably an avalanche happening on the face of Mt Sefton. Those are quite frequent, specially in summer.
Booking Mueller Hut
The hut is not part of the hut pass system. You will need to book your stay before starting the walk up there.
Online bookings are open for the period of the 13 November 2017 to 30 April 2018. Outside this time, you will have to book and pay at the Mt Cook Visitor Centre. Note that even if you book online you will have to collect your tickets at the visitor center in the village on the morning of your walk.
Online booking is available here: reserve a bunk online
Prices are:
Adults (18+ years): $36 per night ($31 for NZAC members)
Youth (5–17 years): $15 per night
If you want to save a bit of money, camping is allowed around the hut (NZD15 per night) but the ground is very rocky over there so definitely take a sleeping mat!
Weather in Aoraki / Mount Cook National park
Aoraki / Mount Cook is a very shy mountain and it is sometimes covered in clouds and hard to see. My best advice is to check the weather before going, in order to maximise your chances. I wish I could give you some advice on when you are the most likely to get good weather but the truth is: there is a 50/50 chance to get good weather all year long in this area…
There is a silver lining though….
Weather changes all the time so if you have a bit of time on your hands, your best option is to wait it out.
You can check for weather here:
http://www.metservice.com/towns-cities/mount-cook
Weather can deteriorate very quickly so make sure you have the proper gear.
Specially in winter when it often snows horizontally on Sealy ridge!
A quick word about safety…
Before attempting this tramp (or any hike in NZ actually), you should register your intent at the Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park Visitor Centre. That has to be done on the same day you are going up. And make sure you sign out when you are back down… you wouldn’t want them to send an helicopter for nothing! If you go out after hours, there is a little metal box to put your sign out form. It is located on the left of the entrance corridor, just next to where you check the weather forecast.
Talking about weather, I said it before but you want to be prepared for sudden changes of weather in that region. So make sure you take some warm clothes and waterproof gears.
As a general rule, I would take an extra day of food. It is not uncommon to get strong blizzards hitting that region. If this happens and visibility is too bad for you to see where you are going, you should wait it out until it is safe to go down. In this case, having an extra day of food makes the experience a little more enjoyable.
In winter, make sure that you are aware of the snow conditions. You can find them on the NZAA website:
New Zealand Avalanche Advisory (NZAA)
Crampons and ice axe are a must if you go there in winter. I personaly don’t think you need any snow anchor or rope if you are not going further than Mount Ollivier. If you are intending to go to Kitchener, then allow enough time as that climb is deceivingly long!
Best shooting locations around Mueller hut
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Sealy tarns
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Sealy ridge
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Mueller Hut
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Mt Ollivier
Ok, so now that you are an expert, let’s dive into where you can find great locations to shoot on your way to Mueller hut.
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Sealy tarns
This location has great potential for reflections but you should come there early in the morning before the wind kicks in.
In winter the tarns are frozen so don’t expect any reflections at that time of the year.
It is also a great spot for a break on your way up to Mueller.
Works best: sunrise and morning
Compositions.
There is an obvious shot next to the lake, trying to get Aoraki / Mount Cook’s reflection.
Another one is passing the tables and continuing a bit further on the ridge. You then get unobstructed views on Aoraki / Mount Cook.
A last one is when going up and looking back at the tarns. You then get to see both the tarns and Aoraki / Mount Cook.
Sun location.
Sun will rise on your right hand side looking at Aoraki / Mount Cook. At sunset, the tarns tend to be in the shadow of the Sealy range which is on your left. Therefore, you probably want to shoot at this location for sunrise (you’ll also get more chance to get less wind and better reflections).
Sealy range
Once you arrive on the ridge, there are some options looking at Aoraki / Mount Cook, and using the ridge as a foreground.
Works best
That location works both at sunrise and sunset but you will more likely be there at the end of the day.
Sun location
Make sure you arrive early enough to that spot before the sun disappears behind Mount Sefton as you will quickly be in the shade and loose all light on your foreground,
Mueller Hut
Compositions
The beauty of Mueller hut is that it offers plenty of options, literally 10m aways from the hut. Actually, you could even stay in the hut and take stunning shots of Aoraki / Mount Cook, just framing it with the door of the hut!
Works best
Both sunrise and sunset. That place is just a photographer’s heaven…
Sun location
Same as the previous location.
Mount Ollivier
Compositions
The advantage of climbing to Mt Ollivier is that you have an unobstructed view on the Tasman valley as far as Lake Pukaki on one side and on the Mueller glacier on the other side.
There are multiple locations on the top but if you are into panoramic and 360 views, you’ll get the best the results at this location.
Works best
Both sunrise and sunset. But if you see that you have good weather for sunset when you arrive at the hut, climb up there straight away because you never know what you’ll get at sunrise. Weather changes very quickly in that region
Sun location
Same as the previous location.
Every time I climb to Mount Ollivier I am amazed how 100m can totally change a scenery.
About me
Hey you!
I’m Nico, a french-kiwi photographer based in Canada (yep, that’s a lot of countries in just one sentence!). I specialise in landscape photography and getting wet feet every time I attempt river crossings… Actually, I have a motto that says that the earlier you get your feet wet, the earlier you can move on and focus on enjoying your hike!
With those articles, my aim is to put in one place all the knowledge I have acquired while visiting those locations. It is not uncommon for me to visit a place several times until I get the conditions I am looking for (often more than once… way more!). As a result, I have acquired an extensive knowledge of those places that I am trying to share here. If you are a photographer, you will find a lot of useful informations on what to expect there but I am pretty sure that if you are just planning on visiting the same places, you will also get something out of it!
Oh, and a word of advice: I have a passion for planning and maps are a huge part of it, so don’t be surprised if you find a lot of them in my articles!
Let me know if you have any questions!
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Nico Babot
Nico Babot
Super!
Thank you! :)
Hey Nico,
Realy enjoyed your blog post about Mueller Hut! I am heading there for the week Aug 12 – 19 and wanted to hike to the hut on my own. I am a very fit, experienced 32 yr old hiker but haven’t had a lot of snow hiking experience. Would this trip be safe and doable if I take axe, crampons? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Tha ks mate!
Hi Shannon,
Thank you for your comment, I hope you will get my answer before you get up there.
If you are fit and experienced, the tramp up there should not cause too much physical problem. The only issues you might have would be technical and weather-related. When it comes to snow, it is always hard to give generic advice as the snow conditions might make the tramp a breeze if you have a nice a compact snow and a dangerous slug if you have a fresh dump (for example it took me once double the time to get to the hut with snow up my waist).
My advice would be to ask at DOC what the snow conditions are and if people have already climbed up there. It makes the climb easier if steps have already been made. If there hasn’t been snow for a while it will also be more likely to be more compact and easier to climb.
Also, look at the avalanche conditions. You can find them on the NZAA website:
https://www.avalanche.net.nz/region/7
Hope this will help,
Let meknow how your trip went once you are back!
Nico
Hi Nico, it’s Nico haha, me and my partner Porchi from Argentina, are going next Sunday 28th of February, thanks for all the information really helpful!
i Olà Nico !
Glad that you found the info useful, let me know how it was!
Hi Nico how are you. Yesterday we came back from the Mueller Hut. The experience was pretty amazing.
We found the most challenging stage at the stairs, after sealy tarns all was rocky, we had to climb a little and as you said It was more technical but for us was easier than the stairs also more funny.
The next day the weather was cloudy and expecting strong winds at afternoon, so we decided to go down early, it was a little rain but luckily didn’t wet the rocks too much so we made our way back in 2.20 ( we were surprised , we are 33 and 32 and not so much experience and not the fittest person’s )
Today we are felling sore legs. Thanks for the information. Finally I want to say that if someone is planning to go up there, be conscious that is not an easy game, we did 4 other tracks before this one, we still rookies but learning a lot from every track. So, plan your food well, check the weather, sleep well and Enjoy!
Thanks again Nico!
Good call for going down early, it can be very windy on the ridge when weather is bad.
Glad that you had a good time and enjoy those stiff legs!
Good call for going down early, it can be very windy on the ridge when weather is bad.
Glad that you had a good time and enjoy those stiff legs! :)